We left Elwha RV park and drove about 20 miles north to the coast on state route 120. We were fortunate to find a campsite for three days at the Salt Creek Recreation area located on the Straight of Juan de Fuca, the 90 mile long body of water separating the US from Canada. Many sites in this small county park have views of the water with trails that lead to tide pools and gorgeous views from rocky bluffs.
The only thing that wasn’t cooperating was the weather, or, more specifically, the smoke from all of the wildfires in California, Oregon and here in Washington. Light winds and fog which also contributed to the white out we were experiencing. Visibility rarely exceeded a quarter mile during our three days here. In lieu of sightseeing, we made use of our time by shopping and stocking up on provisions, notably the beautiful fresh fish and smoked salmon from local fishermen.
The weather finally started to break the day we left Salt Creek. We came up here to experience the Olympic National Park but, so far, our efforts have been mostly thwarted by the weather. Just a few days ago we had to turn around at one of the parks highlights, Hurricane Ridge, because of the smoke. Now, we headedt for the Hoh Rainforest, hoping our luck would change.
We headed out once again on the 101 in a counter clockwise direction around the peninsula and passed beautiful Lake Crescent which was, you guessed it, shrouded in smoke and fog. The 101 skirted the entire south shore of the lake, and it was difficult to see even the other side.
As we meandered the two lane road along the 20 mile shore line, logging trucks wizzed by us. These drivers seemed to push the limits of the road, negotiating the curves as skillfully as a Formula One driver. If we got behind one, we couldn’t keep up, and if one got behind us, he would quickly pass at the first chance. These road warriors were clearly paid by the load, not by the hour, and they earned every dollar.
We circled the western boundary of Olympic National Park and passed by the small towns of Beaver, Forks and Queets. Most of the time we were surrounded by forests, but for a short time we followed the coast and caught glimpses of the rocky, log strewn beaches.
After about 3 hours we pulled into our site at the Quinault River Inn, located on the banks of the Quinault river shortly before it left Lake Quinault. There are only four RV sites here set wide apart and on lush grass.
Our plan was to stay here three days before finally heading home. This would serve as our base to explore the western part of the park, most notably the famous Hoh Rainforest.
On Thursday we had a light breakfast, walked and fed Toby and Joey and packed lunches for the day. Our plan was to visit the Hoh rainforest that we passed on our way here which was about an hour north. It promised to be a nice day. The sun was finally out and the smoke was dissipating.
The 60 mile drive north passed quickly and we pulled off the Hoh turnoff. It was another 12 miles before we reached the park boundary and several miles more to the ranger station and parking lot at the end of the road.
We donned our masks and headed for the Old Moses trailhead which would take us past some of the park’s highlights. What we saw in the short mile long loop amazed us. This is one of the few remaing old-growth forests and has been unchanged for thousands of years. We gazed in awe of majestic Sitka spruces and Western hemlock trees reaching 300 feet in the high with trunks up to 7 feet in diameter. Moss and ferns hung from every limb and twisting roots entangled the ground, dead logs and anything within reach. An ancient fallen tree about 4 feet in diameter lay next to the path which measured 200 feet long.
Back at the car we broke our our sandwiches along with a cold beer while Toby and Joey explored the grassy picnic grounds. Soon we were back on the 101 headed back to Lake Quinault. We were glad to have seen this part of the Olympic National Park and have vowed to return one day hopefully when the weather was a bit more accommodating.
Keith and Roz's blog 